| Shropshire Star Feature - November 2003,
friendly
fireworks as family enjoys a feast by
PHIL GILLAM Right from the outset, I knew there was the potential for fireworks - friendly fireworks, you understand, but fireworks nonetheless. Within minutes my ebullient father-in-law is asking: "I wonder if I could have mine without cauliflower, please, because I don't really like cauliflower." "Ah, yes!" enthuses our Italian host, sensing that in my father-in-law he has a worthy adversary for the evening. "Cauliflower! Cauliflower! For you, sir, I make sure you have extra cauliflower." And there is laughter all round the table. We know we are going to have a good time. Our youngest son, nine-year-old Alex, makes his order, saying: "Is it all right if I have the salmon for my starter and also the salmon for my main course? I like salmon." "You like salmon?" says Mr Bernardini. "I would never have guessed it!" And thus the tone is set. Each time Mr Bernardini - Giuliano Bernardini, the owner of the establishment - comes to our table, there is a joke or a little gentle fun at our expense and it all adds to the richness and enjoyment of our visit to the Traitors Gate Brasserie situated at the top of historic St Mary's Waterlane in Shrewsbury. About 360 years ago, just a few yards from this exquisite restaurant, Parliamentarian soldiers who had travelled up the River Severn arrived at the bottom of St Mary's Waterlane. In order for them to charge up the lane and make their way into the town and the castle, held by the Royalist forces of King Charles I, someone must have let them in through the gate in the town walls. I'm supposing that those who let them in were seen by many as traitors and that this episode is from where the brasserie takes its name. To get to your table, you walk down a short flight of steps and you then find yourself in a wonderful little complex of alcoves and cellars which have been cleverly converted into secluded and intimate seating areas. My in-laws order a bottle of wine, my wife and I and our two teenage lads go for lager (I know, I know - "Philistines!" I hear you cry, but we might as well stick to what we know we like) and it's Coca-Cola for Alex. It is a real joy to take over a large table like this and have a spaceous yet personal area all to ourselves - the seven of us gathered together under one roof for a super night out. Good conversation. Good company. And yes, of course, great food as well. Being a vegetarian, I chose for my starter what was billed as "grilled succulent field mushrooms with garlic, oregano, and a delicate hint of mustard" - priced at £4.40. Succulent is the word, all right. This was absolutely delicious. And my main course - chosen from off the blackboard - was a vegetable casserole, and again it was really lovely. I have to say, however, that this was one of those occasions when I felt my eyes were bigger than my stomach (my own fault entirely and nothing to do with the fabulous meal) because this was a huge amount of food and, half way through it, I found I was beginning to struggle. Some would say the pints of lager I kept ordering would not have helped matters in this respect - but heyho! Stop picking on me. I was enjoying myself. At one point I looked up to see middle son Tom laughing and sipping on his pint of Guinness. He was having a brilliant time, as indeed we all were. My wife Carol had, for starters, the chopped avocado mixed with mascarpone cheese and a dressing of lemon juice, garlic, mustard and tabasco served on a bed of lettuce leaves garnished with flaked almonds (£4.95), and for the main course braised shoulder of lamb marinated in mint and spices, cooked with shallots, Italian bacon and cannellini beans. (£12.15). "Enjoying yourself?" I asked her. "It's really lovely," she said. Don't ask me what the rest of our party had to eat. You would have to ask them yourself. All I know is, everyone enthused about not only the food, but the atmosphere as well. At the end of the evening, our Alex announced: "I have to say that the food is absolutely superb. I've really enjoyed myself." And, quite frankly, that sums it all up pretty well. The food was indeed superb and we all enjoyed ourselves. It's times like this I recall a night at the Shrewsbury Flower Show, watching the magnificent fireworks display lighting up the sky above, and our eldest son, David, who was just a little fella at the time, saying: "It makes you proud to be Shrewsbury-ish." Well, fantastic restaurants like Traitor's Gate also make you proud to be Shrewsbury-ish. Our compliments to Mr Bernardini, the chef Fred Nichols, and all the staff at Traitor's Gate. Long may it continue to provide memorable nights out like this one. MENU SAMPLE: |